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New gardener
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Posted by SueAus (My Page) on Tue, Nov 18, 03 at 2:45
| Hi,
I am about to tackle my Greek, east facing, (non) garden. At the moment I have a lot of land that is mostly clay soil. I have been told I need to work the soil, to make it suitable for some bulbs which is what I want to put in to start off. I have cleared a trench along the top of a stone wall and intend to sprinkle some stone debri left from the builders into the trench, then chuck in some soil, some compost that has been laying around and put in some bulbs at a shallow depth. This really is my first time at getting my hands dirty, but it is a new home and I am sick of looking at empty land. Am I heading in the right direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sue |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: New gardener
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To me the ground preparation sounds fine, remembering you cannot overdo the compost. I'm a bit puzzled about the layout: by 'top of a stone wall' do you mean the top of a terracing wall, so that the ground you are working is on a level with the top of the wall? Does the ground continue sloping up from there? It's just that I imagine bulbs lined along the top without any visual support. Perhaps you could think about some other things to go in at the same time: nepetas, lavenders, sages which would give a contrast of shape to your bulbs, hide their dying leaves when the bulbs have done their thing and would extend the flowering season overall. |
RE: New gardener
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| Hello, thank you very much for your reply. Yes the ground is level with the top of a stone wall and goes back about 20 metres, flat until the next terrace rises. I do plan to put in Geraniums periodically along the wall, so they will spill over and hopefully some succulents to do the same. I want to add height as well but at the same time do not want to create a wall of flowers. This initial planting area can be viewed from both the passing road and from most of the windows in my house, so the idea is to have a colourful row of blooms to be seen from both angles. I have 2 Palm Trees, not of the towering variety, already planted approx 20 metres apart also along and slightly back from the edge of the wall. Once I get this initial border area sorted I will work my way up the sides where I would like to have some shrubs and definately some Rosemary nearer to the house. Finally what is left I will allow my husband to lay some lawn. Anyway that is the picture I see in my head but I am very open to suggestions, so fire away! Sue. |
RE: New gardener
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| Why the stone debris in the trench? Are you trying to hide it? Rock can interfere with the movement of water. What is the terrain like at your place? Coastal? Mountains? Valley? I'm an hour from the coast in Oregon. Never been to Greece yet. My dad was born in Athens. (Never learned Greek either since my mother was English speaking Canadian) |
RE: New gardener
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Hi, The soil I have is very boggy. Someone recommended I throw in some of this crushed rock to help drainage. I am sea facing on hilly terrain. You should get yourself over to Greece sometime. It is a beautiful country, particularly the islands. Sue |
RE: New gardener
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| Rock could help drainage if used in certain ways. Like to fill a trench for water to drain. But putting rock into soil can make drainage worse. Let me use a magnified example to explain. Suppose you have a 50 foot x 50 foot area (or 50 m x 50 m). And let's say its clay type soil - slow draining. It may be slow draining, but at least it drains. Now suppose you lower a boulder the size of an automobile on top of this area, in the center, and let it rest on the surface. Water can't go through that big rock. Any rain that lands on that rock will not go through and drain through the soil below it. The water on the rock will run to the side and increase the moisture that has to drain in areas that already have water that needs to drain. This is to explaing that the rock merely takes up room - space. So if we work rocks INTO our soil, the rock just takes up space. We may be able to accomplish something if the rock were 80% of the soil mix. Sometimes that means there is not enough soil to fill the pores in the rock and the rock can't compact since the edges are touching. Often it is better to collect the water and divert it. Sand is little rock, too. |
RE: New gardener
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- Posted by meggs WA Aust (My Page) on
Sat, Mar 20, 04 at 3:05
| we use gypsum to break the clay in OZ, plenty of it. You just spread it all over. It is supposed to bind the clay particles. Later add plenty of compost. Do you use the same method in other parts of the world? |
RE: New gardener
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| Yes, that works good in Oregon too. We have plenty of heavy clay, which I find to be the premium soil when organic matter is added. And as you said, the gypsum works, although lime is my usual additive. It worked at golf courses too, where I worked in the 1980s, when soil became compacted. We used the lime as a form of chemical aeration. |
RE: New gardener
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| As you've probably found by now, clay can be temperamental to work. It's like Goldilocks' porridge - only sometimes is it 'just right'. It is probably safer to not dig trenches for gardening as such, if you have solid clay at about 30cm down. In winter, or whenever your rains come, the watertable will rise and be very slow to drain away. It may even sit in puddles for longer than twenty minutes. If you can fork in compost to the top 15cm and plant into there, then keep adding compost or mulch to the surface then both the ease of working and the depth of soil will improve. Unless the soil you are on has been relentlessly cropped, or is subsoil left after erosion then clay can be a useful and fertile soil to garden on. It just takes a bit of 'getting to know'. If your garden gets a lot of sun and bakes out over summer, you may need to plant your bulbs a bit deeper. Check that they aren't flabby. If they are, they may have been too hot and will be better planted deeper. If you're wanting 'hot' colours in the garden, along with the geraniums, there's Arctotis and Gazania which cover plenty of ground and have long flowering times. Daisy form. And for height you might like to try sweet peas, or Lathyrus nervosa, on 'tepees' which can, of course, be painted to enhance the garden style. |
RE: New gardener
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| Sue, If I may add my tuppence, I would lay off the debris entirely, unless your trench is about 2ft deep, then you could fill it about 6inches with debris. If it is any shallower forget the debris. Just work coarse builders sand into your soil with some multipurpose compost and fill your trench with this mixture. I once had a garden with extremely clayey soil, and it took us years of adding sand and compost, to get it into reallly good garden soil. You say it is hilly terrain over there. Does it get very windy? If so, you will need to plant your bulbs much lower than the usual 'twice the depth of the bulb'. I would suggest that you start your composting heaps at once, as there is nothing better than adding your own home- made compost to clayey soil to improve it. And in that heat your compost should be ready in a few months! Lucky you! Have fun and do tell us how it goes. |
RE: New gardener
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Sue..How exciting..nothing like a challenge! Many plants which grow in my garden would be quite suitable for your garden area..see www.wigandia.com best billy |
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