| Okay. Here goes: In a lot of cooler weather areas [some where average minimum temperatures range from 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in winter], raising pots of freesias is a September to April activity. Most people do not live in areas where it is warm enough to grow freesias. They can be a challenge; but you can do it! You can begin by using corms that have been saved from last year's crop and also purchasing a few new hybrids. As with all bulbs, it is best to select those that are large, plump, and firm. Pots really can be any 6 or 8 or 10 inch size. I don't particularly like the low bulb pans, because they need too much watering and don't hold the amount of soil that helps good growth. Terra cotta or plastic both work well. As for soil, the standard mixture of equal part loam, peat moss and sand works the best. They need a well-drained soil so perhaps one third perlite or vermiculite could be a solution, too. Some people like using those better than sand. Around early September, I begin the process of gradually potting up the freesias, a few pots each week, that I want to have blooming around January through March. About 6 or 8 corms are gently spaced and placed an inch or two below the soil mixture, firmed down with a bit of soil and then watered thoroughly. This count is for the smaller pots. Do not crowd the corms as they do need a bit of room for development. The corms should placed about two inches apart. The pots do not go right into a greenhouse as I do not have one; but if you do, it is a good place to keep them a bit later on. You can place them in a cool, dark or shaded area to enable them to establish a nice rooting system. An insulated cold frame will do nicely, or even outside under an eave. They do not need light or sun until the first leaves show. They should be at about 45-55F, no higher; as it will promote too fast a development. Any lower and the bulbs could rot; so try to get it around those temps. Freesias are happier if kept this way for about 45 days. If they are kept cold or cool for too long, they will develop corms above the soil line, so you must pay a bit of attention to them. Once new growth appears in each pot, move the plants to a slightly warmer area; in the house is ideal. The temperature here should be about 60-65F. If necessary, add a bit of water to pots that seem to be drying out. Freesias need a good amount of water during their entire growing period, though watering should not be too much. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Now that they have leaves, they must manufacture food for bloom, so light is important now as well. A south-facing window might be cool yet bright enough to suit them. Don't worry about being exact with these requirements. As long as the freesias receive sufficient light at this stage, they will manage to bloom. Very warm temperatures however will delay flowering or cause bud drop or blasting, as with other bulbs. When the foliage gets to be around 6 inches tall, it is necessary to begin staking each pot with 2 foot-long bamboo stakes. Connect the stakes with twine or wire, or even heavy cotton. As the foliage grows to almost 2 feet, keep pushing the greenery inside the staking arrangement. This process helps to keep the individual pots looking neat and eventually guides the flower buds to grow tall and straight. Now is the time to begin a program of fertilising. Any all purpose liquid fertiliser (10-30-20) is quite sufficient, being sure to follow the directions on the container. Make sure it is a non-acid type and keep the soil moist but not sodden. Flouridated water is often said to be a problem with freesias, normally it is not if you use a good fertiliser and soil; but if you wish you can use bottled water. Aphids and white flies can be a problem, especially in a greenhouse with inadequate air circulation and with plants too close to one another. Deal with these pests as you see fit. Sme people use a pesticide, others prefer not to. If they are in the house it is not such a problem, but it can happen, so watch for them. A cooler window with lots of light and space around them can help here. Depending upon the growing conditions and the type of freesia you have, the first blossoms will appear approximately two to four months after planting. Continue fertilising each week as long as they are in bloom; which could be a few weeks. Keep watering each pot as the the foliage turns brown. When it begins to warm up in springtime, the pots can be put outside. Let the corms dry a bit after lifting them; and store them in a cool, dry, and airy spot for the summer. If stored in closed containers they will certainly rot. If stored with too many on top of one another they will also be prone to rot. You can start all over again now! | 
